The wood and stone go in before a single plant. Get the structure wrong and no amount of planting rescues it.
This is the most reliable prediction we can make about a first scape. In an empty tank, a piece of wood that looks absurdly oversized will look about right once plants fill in — and a piece that looks correct in the empty tank will disappear entirely by month two.
Plants shrink hardscape. Build the structure so it looks slightly too dominant, then plant around it.
| Type | Character | Sinks? | Tannins |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spiderwood | Fine branching, good for tree layouts | Usually floats 1–2 weeks | Low |
| Manzanita | Straight branching, pale | Floats, needs soaking | Low |
| Mopani | Heavy, two-tone, chunky | Sinks immediately | High for months |
| Redmoor / azalea root | Twisting, dense fine tips | Floats initially | Moderate |
Tannins stain water the colour of weak tea. This is harmless and some people want it; if you do not, boil the wood, do larger water changes for the first month, or run activated carbon.
Seiryu and other limestone-bearing rocks raise hardness and pH as they dissolve. In a soft-water shrimp tank, that matters. Dragon stone (ohko) and lava rock are essentially inert. Test any unknown stone with a drop of vinegar: fizzing means carbonate, which means it will change your water.
Place the focal point about a third of the way across the tank, never centred. A centred main rock reads as static; an off-centre one implies the scene continues past the glass.
Depth is the hardest thing to achieve in a box 40 cm deep. Three techniques do most of the work: substrate sloping up towards the back, larger stone in front and smaller behind, and finer-leaved plants at the rear. All three exploit the same perceptual trick — distant things are smaller and less detailed.